This month's recipe is for Sicilian Arancini, those iconic fried rice balls that are a staple of the island's street food scene. These golden spheres of saffron-infused risotto, encased in a crisp breading, conceal a variety of savory fillings. The name, derived from the Italian arancia (orange), alludes to their characteristic shape and color.

Sicilian Arancini : A Culinary Journey Through Sicilian History Arancini—golden, crispy spheres of risotto, stuffed with delicious fillings—are one of Sicily’s most iconic street foods. Their name comes from arancia, the Italian word for "orange," because of their round shape and golden hue. Although I have eaten them in Little Italy, the impetus for learning to make Arancini came while watching the Italian detective series, Montalbano on MHz. Montalbano's aunt tells him that she has made Arancini and Montalbano drops everything to rush over to feast on these cheesy and savory delights. He and his friends consume them with passion. It made me want to make and eat them! Sicilian cuisine is a reflection of the many cultures that have occupied the island. The roots of arancini can be traced back to the 9th and 10th centuries during the Arab rule of Sicily. The Arabs introduced rice cultivation to the island, particularly in the fertile regions around Palermo and Catania. They also brought saffron, a key ingredient in the traditional preparation of arancini, which lends both color and fragrance to the dish. Due to its size and location, Sicily has be occupied or conquered by dizzying number external forces. The original inhabitants are thought to have been Sicani, Elymians, and Sicels (hence the name). But over several millenia Sicily has been controlled or occupied by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, German Hohenstaufen, Angevins from France, Aragonese, Spanish, Austrians, and the Spanish house of Borbón. Sicily only became part of the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century. While Arancini are round in western Sicily, they are cone-shaped in the eastern part of the Island. Interestingly enough the western arancini are called During Norman rule (11th–12th centuries), Sicily's cuisine became more elaborate. It is believed that the practice of rolling leftover saffron-infused rice into balls and filling them with meat or cheese began in this period. Frying these rice balls in lard or olive oil made them portable, perfect for travelers and laborers. By the Renaissance, Sicilian aristocracy had embraced arancini as a refined dish, served at lavish feasts. Over time, regional variations emerged. The two main styles are the Palermo-style arancini, which are round and often contain a filling of ragù, and the Catania-style arancini, which are conical, resembling Mount Etna, and frequently filled with cheese or a mix of ragù and peas. In modern Italy, arancini are particularly popular on December 13th, the Feast of Santa Lucia, when eating bread and pasta is traditionally avoided. Today, they can be found in Sicilian cafés, street vendors, rosticcerie (fried food shops). They are enjoyed as a snacks, appetizers, or even full meals. The East-West cultural culinary divide: In the eastern part of Sicily, these rice balls are conical (likened to Mr. Etna) known by the masculine form of the word for an orange "arancio" and they are called "arancino". Eastern Arancini are typically filled with ragù (meat sauce), mozzarella, and peas. In the west, however, arancini are round and they are known as "arancina" and there the most popular fillings are ragù, ham, mozzarella, and béchamel sauce. Of course, westerners consider their arancini the most authentic, but the easterners entirely disagree! Cook's Notes: It is not recommended to use anything but short grain rice for Arancini. If you are accustomed to rinsing rice before cooking in (nowadays a suspect necessity), don't. You need the rice to be somehat sticky. Arancini uses seasoned bread crumbs, the most basic being salt and pepper but feel free to use any Italian herbs or seasoning you have. If you want the crusts to be extra crunch use Japanese panko crumbs. The only thing that is common to all Arancini are the rice, breading, and Parmigian cheese. The filling is intirely up to you, but mozzarella cheese and peas are extremely common in Sicily. Ground beef and ground pork are common additions and there are quite a few recipes for crab, shrimp, and lobster Arancini. It is also common to serve Arancini with maranara sauce, but if you cook your own it might be best to forgoe adding sugar as the acidity of maranara complements the cheese in Arancini. If you want to save on paper towels and have the crispest Arancini, put them on a wire rack (instead of paper towels) after you fry them. Anancini are best eaten soon after they are cooked (but don't burn yourself!) as the mozzarella cheese will be soft and stringy. But they are delicious even at room temperature.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
• 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
• 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads (optional, but traditional)
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 pound ground beef (or a mix of beef and pork)
• 1/2 small onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup tomato sauce or crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/3 cup frozen peas
• 1/2 cup diced mozzarella cheese (optional)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 1/2 cups fine breadcrumbs
• Vegetable or sunflower oil for deep frying

Preparation:

1. In a saucepan, heat the broth until warm. Add saffron and let it steep for a few minutes.
2. In another pot, cook the Arborio rice with the saffron-infused broth, stirring frequently, until tender and all liquid is absorbed (about 18–20 minutes).
3. Remove from heat and stir in butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and salt to taste.
4. Spread the rice onto a tray and let it cool completely before shaping. This step is crucial for handling the rice later.
5. Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté the onions until soft, about 3 minutes.
6. Add ground meat and cook until browned.
7. Pour in white wine (if using) and let it evaporate.
8. Stir in tomato sauce, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes.
9. Add the peas and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
10. Wet your hands to prevent sticking. Take a handful of cooled rice (about 1/4 cup) and flatten it into a disc.
11. Place a spoonful of ragù filling in the center. If using, add a cube of mozzarella.
12. Gently fold the rice around the filling, shaping it into a ball (or a cone if making Catania-style arancini).
13. Repeat until all the rice and filling are used.
14. Dip into beaten eggs, coating evenly.
15. Roll in breadcrumbs, pressing gently to adhere.
16. Heat oil in a deep fryer or heavy pot to 350°F (175°C).
17. Fry arancini in batches until golden brown and crispy (about 3–4 minutes per batch).
18. Drain on paper towels or an wire rack.

Serving Suggestions Arancini are delicious on their own but can be served with marinara sauce or a simple garlic aioli for dipping. They pair wonderfully with a crisp Sicilian white wine like Grillo or a light red like Frappato. Enjoy your homemade arancini, a bite of Sicilian history and tradition in every crispy, cheesy, flavorful bite!

Recipe by T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photos by Shari K. Johnston-O'Neill